Q. In a paint store the other day the man in front of me was the owner of a sign painting business. When he got his order the clerk gave him a sheet called the "MSDS" and referred to it as the "safety sheet". When I got my order I asked if I got a "safety sheet" too and the clerk told me I didn't need one. What is a "safety sheet" and why did the business owner need one and I don't?

A. The MSDS, Material Safety Data Sheet, is a creation of  OSHA in response to worker illness and injury resulting from the association with and handling of potentially hazardous materials and chemicals. Employers using any of the materials on the OSHA list are required to have MSDS paperwork on the premises and available for inspection at any time. Of course its use has expanded to the ridiculous to the point where a commercial buyer of steel wool is required to have an MSDS on it.

However, an MSDS does contain information that any user, professional or amateur, of a chemical such as paint stripper, various solvents and most finishes should have available to him or her. An MSDS contains information such as chemical composition, boiling point, volatility characteristics, specific gravity, toxicity, storage procedures, disposal requirements and other important facts like antidotes and treatment. Suppliers of the materials are required to make an MSDS available to any commercial customer but they are not obligated to furnish them to the consumer although some will if asked specifically for them, others won't.  

Virtually all manufacturers make MSDS material available online - you just have to look for it. There is a site where you can learn more about MSDS and possibly find a link to download one for the product you are interested in. Go to http://www.ilpi.com/msds/faq/parta.html   Get the facts, be informed and stay safe.

Q. I bought a dining table said to be from the 1930's that has three leaves with it. The leaves are stored in a separate box made just for them, which is great. That's probably why they are in such great condition. In fact they are actually a little too good compared to the table top itself. It doesn't look like the leaves have ever been used! The table top is in good condition too, just a little darker and dirtier looking than the leaves. I want to be able to use the leaves but I don't want to refinish a good table just to match the leaves. Is there a halfway point?

A. Probably but first a little theory. Most tables have extension leaves to make the table longer for special occasions. The assumption is that the table ordinarily does not need to be that big - only at certain times of the year, for example. And when those special times of the year roll around you almost certainly will have a set of pads on the table along with a nice tablecloth. People are coming to enjoy the meal and the company, not admire the table. Nobody will ever see the leaves.

But that doesn't answer the question. You can try cleaning the table first with Murphy's Oil soap and then with mineral spirits or naphtha, just be careful with the chemicals and have plenty of ventilation when you do the work. Then apply a good clear paste wax like Briwax, Fiddes or Kiwi Bois. This should even up the finishes a little. If the leaves are still too bright you might try to bring them down a little by using a darkened version of the same wax you used on the table top. They all come in colors. That's about all you can do without getting into some serious finish work.

Q. We recently had some leaks in our house while we were away and things got soaked and stayed that way for almost a week. Veneer is peeling, legs are cracking etc. It just makes me sick. The homeowner's insurance company is pressing me to settle this quickly so they can close their file. They sent somebody out here to look at everything a determine a price to fix it or replace it but I am a little uncomfortable with this. Any suggestions?

A. The company wants to settle in a hurry before the true extent of the damage can be seen. It takes several weeks for things to dry out and do what they are going to do. Sometimes total damage is not apparent for months. Don't be in a hurry. Go ahead and spend some money up front to hire a furniture restoration specialist that you feel comfortable with and use his estimate as a bargaining chip. Get someone who will be on your side and work for you, not the insurance company.

Fred Taylor's new book "HOW TO BE A FURNITURE DETECTIVE" is now available for $18.95 plus $2.00 S & H. Send check or money order for $20.95 to Fred Taylor, PO Box 215, Crystal River, FL 34423.

Fred and Gail Taylor's video, "IDENTIFICATION OF OLDER & ANTIQUE FURNITURE", ($29.95 includes S & H) is also available at the same address. For more information call (800) 387-6377, fax (352) 563-2916, or e-mail fmtaylor@aol.com.